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Sir William Hill – Bretton Clough – Bretton – Sir William Hill
Make your way to the ‘Unsuitable for Motors’ sign at the start of the rough section of road on Sir William Hill, just before the summit. This forms part of the old Buxton to Grindleford turnpike road which reaches a height of over 1400 feet before descending 500 feet to Grindleford in a little over ½-mile.
The name Sir William Hill is said to date back to at least 1692, and there are several theories as to the naming of it. There was a Sir William who was at that date Lord of the Manor of Eyam, but Sir William Cavendish owned Stoke Hall. The Sir William Hotel was known as The Commercial Hotel until earlier in the 19th century but Sir William Bagshawe portrayed on its signboard was not born until 1771.
Walk along the rough section of road, heading for the trig point on your left and mast on your right. As you approach the summit,consider what it must have been like to reach this point in a horse drawn carriage or laden wagon, possibly with mist swirling around you and any landmarks hidden from sight.
As you begin to descend you will have the most amazing views towards the moors surrounding Sheffield. On a clear day you should be able to make out Carl Wark, Higger Tor, Millstone Edge and the buildings of Fox House and Longshaw Lodge nestling in the trees.
Go over a stile on your left and follow the footpath indicated to Stoke Ford. Walk across the heather clad moor and in springtime listen out for the distinctive singing of sky larks. From this elevated path you can see towards Kinder and Bleaklow with the summits of Win Hill and Lose Hill just visible. Abney Moor is in the foreground and you can clearly make out how pasture has been taken in from the wild moors.
At the brow of the hill you should come across a little cairn of stones. Below is the mystical and secretive ravine of Bretton Clough which contains babbling waters and bumpy hillocks. In 1745 the farmers of Eyam drove their cattle into the clough to hide them from Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Highlanders who had invaded Derbyshire on their way south.
Over to your right you should be able to see Highlow Hall across the valley, with North Lees just visible on the far hillside. Way across the valley to your left is Abney Grange which was in the possession of Welbeck Abbey before becoming the private residence of the Bagshaws and Bradshaws.
Drop down from the moors to a junction of paths with a wooded area over to your left. Before you are two gates, and you should go over a stile to the side of the gate on the left. Now follow a lovely old track down the hillside which eventually leads to Stoke Ford.
When you reach the brook turn left immediately and follow it upstream. You will pass a derelict house on your left, which is one of five deserted homesteads in the clough, remnants of a once thriving rural community. Gotheredge Farm dated from the 17th century and stood high up the side of the valley. In 1785 it was the scene of a brutal murder involving a local man known as Blinker Bland. Closeby stood the two holdings of Bretton Clough Twin Farms, individually known as Fairest Clough Farm and Hawleys Farm. In 1893 a rabbit warren was created at Clough Farm by the lord of the manor of Abney. It was let to London furriers and tie-makers the Jacob Brothers. Rabbits were bred here for the next forty years or so, but with no great financial success. The rabbits are said to have burrowed so much that they badly damaged the land making the slopes of shale very unstable.
Continue straight ahead over the fields. The path now crosses a further stream by means of a little stone footbridge and wooden stiles. Follow the path around to the left and climb up the bank and continue until you emerge at the little hamlet of Bretton.
You will reach the old road which preceded the turnpike of 1757 over Sir William Hill. On your right you can just make out the ruins of Nether Bretton Farm. This was an early seventeenth century yeoman’s residence which fell into ruin toward the end of the 19th century when the lead-mining industry fell into decline.
Turn right and follow the road up past the Youth Hostel to the Barrel Inn. This little hamlet was once a thriving community with 22 children at one time attending the school at Great Hucklow. They would have walked up from farms in the Clough before heading off together along the hilltop road to school. Many of the inhabitants were employed in local mines and between the Barrel Inn and the Youth Hostel there once stood a row of 6 miners’ cottages.
An annual Fair took place at Bretton with donkey races and a sheep roast. In about 1830 the hamlet had its own foot race. It is said that a ram was covered with soft soap to make it slippery and the runners had to catch it as it raced along the road towards Grindleford. As with Eyam, Bretton lost some of its residents to the plague, and there are graves marked with flat headstones in a field near to the Youth Hostel.
From the Barrel Inn follow the road back to Sir William Hill and your parking place. As you wander along the ridge top road look out for a small memorial plaque on the right to the memory of Harold Farmer which reads:
“Under the opening eyelids of the morn
Oft till the star that rose at evening bright
Tomorrow to fresh woods and pastures new”
Oft till the star that rose at evening bright
Tomorrow to fresh woods and pastures new”
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